Things to Do in Comoros

About Comoros

Comoros hits you first in the nose. The moment you step off the small propeller plane onto the tarmac at Prince Said Ibrahim Airport, the air is thick with the sweet-spicy scent of drying cloves and ylang-ylang blossoms—it’s the smell of the entire archipelago’s economy. This is a nation that lives on the water’s edge, where the call to prayer from the Friday Mosque in Moroni’s medina competes with the crash of waves against the black volcanic rocks of Itsandra Beach. The Grande Comore (Ngazidja), the largest island, is dominated by Mount Karthala, an active volcano whose misty crater rim is a world of giant heather trees, and whose lower slopes are terraced with vanilla vines. On Anjouan, the roads switchback through jungles so dense they muffle sound, leading to Mutsamudu’s crumbling Swahili port architecture, where a full octopus-and-rice lunch at a family-run hotely might cost 2,500 KMF (about $5.50). Moheli, the smallest, feels forgotten by time, its beaches like Miringoni patrolled by giant coconut crabs at night. The catch? Infrastructure is basic—power cuts are routine, hot water is a luxury, and getting between islands depends on the mood of the Indian Ocean and the availability of the aging inter-island ferries. But that’s the trade: you come here not for polished resorts, but to walk on beaches where your footprints are the only ones, and to find a version of island life that the rest of the world seems to have forgotten how to offer.

Travel Tips

Transportation: Getting around is an exercise in patience and flexibility. Inter-island travel relies on a fleet of aging ferries (the Mitsamiouli, the Al Mounawar) and sporadic Air Tanzania flights. A ferry ticket from Moroni to Mutsamudu on Anjouan currently runs about 8,000 KMF ($17.50), but schedules are more of a suggestion—delays of several hours are standard, and seas can be rough. On the islands, shared taxis (Toyota Hiace vans) are the main transport; a seat from the airport to Moroni town shouldn't cost more than 1,000 KMF ($2.20) per person. Renting a car is possible but expensive (around 40,000 KMF/$88 per day) and the roads, especially on Anjouan, are punishingly steep and potholed. Your best bet? Hire a local driver with a 4x4 for the day—it tends to cost about the same as a rental but comes with navigational expertise and mechanical backup.

Money: Cash is king, and the Comorian Franc (KMF) is pegged to the Euro at 491.96775 KMF = 1 Euro. Euros are accepted at hotels and for larger tours, but for everything else—market stalls, taxis, small restaurants—you’ll need local currency. ATMs exist in Moroni and Mutsamudu, but they’re unreliable; assume the one you find will be out of service and bring enough Euros to exchange. A typical budget day—street food, shared taxis, a simple guesthouse—might run you 25,000 KMF ($55). Credit cards are virtually useless outside of the few upscale hotels. One insider trick: exchange a chunk of money at the airport upon arrival; the rate is fair, and it saves you hunting for a bank that’s open (a frustratingly rare occurrence).

Cultural Respect: Comoros is a devoutly Muslim nation, and respect for local customs is non-negotiable. Dress conservatively, especially for women: covered shoulders and knees are essential in all public spaces. Beachwear is strictly for the beach. During Ramadan, eating, drinking, or smoking in public during daylight hours is offensive. When visiting a village, it’s polite to seek permission from the local elder or moudjimu before wandering around or taking photographs, especially of people. A simple “Je peux?” (May I?) in French goes a long way. Greetings are important; take the time for a proper “Salam aleikum” and handshake. If invited into a home, which happens surprisingly often, remove your shoes and accept the small cup of sweet, spiced coffee offered—it’s a sign of hospitality you should never refuse.

Food Safety: The local food culture revolves around the hotely—simple, often family-run eateries serving a daily set meal of rice, beans, and a stewed fish or meat for around 1,500 KMF ($3.30). Hygiene standards vary wildly. The rule of thumb: eat where it’s busy with locals, as high turnover means fresher food. Stick to thoroughly cooked dishes like langouste à la vanille (lobster in vanilla sauce) or poisson grillé (grilled fish). Be cautious with raw vegetables and unpeeled fruit unless you’ve washed them yourself with bottled water. Bottled water is essential—avoid ice and be wary of juices diluted with tap water. That said, the street-side mabawa (grilled chicken) or samboussa (samosas) from a vendor with a constant charcoal fire are usually safe and incredibly flavorful. Your stomach might protest initially, but it tends to adapt after a couple of days.

When to Visit

Choosing your month in Comoros is essentially choosing your relationship with rain and humidity. The dry season, from May to October, is when the islands are at their most accessible. This is the best window for hiking Karthala or hopping between islands, with temperatures hovering around 25-28°C (77-82°F) and lower humidity. It’s also when hotel prices are at their peak, with rooms in Moroni’s better guesthouses running about 30% higher. The wet season, November through April, brings the kashkazi monsoon: daily downpours, stifling humidity, and temperatures that feel hotter than the 30-32°C (86-90°F) reading. Travel between islands becomes more erratic as the seas swell. However, this is when the islands are lush, waterfalls are full, and you’ll have places like Moheli’s turtle-nesting beaches almost to yourself—if you can get there. For a balance, aim for the shoulder months of late April/early May or late October. The major cultural event is the Grand Mariage festival, which happens year-round but peaks before the dry season; it’s a days-long, incredibly expensive display of family wealth. As a visitor, you might be invited to the periphery of the celebrations—an unforgettable spectacle of music, dance, and elaborate costumes—but don’t expect to be at the center of it. Budget travelers should target the wet season for lower costs, while luxury seekers (though ‘luxury’ is relative here) and families will find the dry season’s predictability worth the premium. If your dream is to see humpback whales breaching off Moheli’s coast, you’ll need to brave the July-September window, when the channel between the islands can be surprisingly rough.