Things to Do in Anjouan

Anjouan erupts from the Indian Ocean like a slab of jade, its volcanic ridges wrapped in mist that carries cloves and ylang-ylang straight to the lungs. Dawn starts with the call to prayer drifting over Mutsamudu’s corrugated rooftops, mingling with charcoal-grilled fish and the slap of waves against the harbor’s black basalt walls. Scooters downshift on steep lanes, women in bright khangas balance breadfruit on their heads, and warm drizzle lands every afternoon without apology. The island keeps its own clock: slow, fragrant, salt-crusted, and stubbornly itself.

In Mutsamudu, Restaurant Msoho on Rue de la Corniche plates coconut-laced octopus curry that locals queue for at lunch; it’s mid-range for the island but still lighter on the wallet than most Zanzibar eateries. Night-time grills appear after seven near the port gates—try the tamarind-marinated swordfish skewers that hiss over coals while barge lights blink offshore. In Ouani, look for a signless blue shack opposite the mosque for lobster thermidor served with manioc rice; go early because they cook the catch until it runs out. Domoni’s market lane hides a woman selling kava-colored banana pilaf from a caldron—ask for the chili-onion relish that makes it sing.

April through October offers drier trails and less humid nights, good for hiking to crater lakes. November ushers in short rains that freshen the cloves but can cut ferry sailings; hotel rates dip then, rewarding flexible travelers. December to March is cyclone season—still warm and fragrant, yet expect sudden downpours that drum metal roofs like pellets and can wash out coastal roads for a day.