Things to Do in Fomboni

Lagoon snorkel around Île de Nioumachoua

Sliding off the pirogue you meet a reef wall where turquoise meets indigo. Green turtles glide between plate corals the size of wagon wheels. Schools of powder-blue surgeonfish part around your mask. The water tastes faintly of cloves that fall from overhanging branches. Your captain, Abdou, keeps time by tapping the hull when a dolphin pod appears. He always knows their route.

Dawn fish market behind the old customs house

At five-thirty the floodlights flick on, revealing skipjack tuna laid in shimmering rows. Their metallic stripes catch orange halos. Women slap octopus tentacles against concrete to tenderise them. Buyers shout bids over the sizzle of oil drums lamps. The air is thick with brine, diesel and just-split jackfruit. Your sandals stick to the scales-slick floor.

Forest hike to Lake Dziani Boundouni

The trail starts behind the ylang-ylang cooperative, wriggling uphill through lemongrass that whips your calves. It releases a citrus perfume each time you brush past. Black-white colobus monkeys crash overhead, shaking dew onto your neck. When the forest opens, a crater lake stares back at you. Jade water so still it mirrors every cloud. The crater rim smells faintly of sulphur and wet fern.

Sunset dhow cruise inside Fomboni Bay

The lateen sail creaks as the captain catches the land breeze. The sun drips molten copper onto the water. Flying fish skip across the bow wave. You can taste salt spray and the sweet cardamom tea handed round in tin cups. From the water, Fomboni's pastel houses look like Lego blocks stacked between palms and flame trees.

Saturday night Mwali music circle at Bar Zoum

The courtyard fills with plastic chairs and the thump of goatskin drums. Guitar strings are made from bicycle brake cable. They twang under fingers calloused by net-hauling. You'll taste ginger-laced rum sold by the teacup. Feel sand grind between your bare feet as locals pull you into the circle. Songs switch from Shingazidja to French without warning. The beat stays irresistible.

Quartier Tsoundzou - rambling guesthouses under breadfruit trees, roosters for alarm clocks

Beach strip east of town - small ecolodges where you fall asleep to waves rattling pebbles

Centre Ville - basic above-shop rooms above the bakery, handy for dawn bread runs

Nioumachoua road - family homestays smelling of cardamom coffee, kids practice English on you

Lagoon side - two-room bungalows on stilts, reachable by plank walkway at high tide

Airport fringe - one concrete hotel with generator hum, handy for crack-of-dawn departures