14 Days in Comoros

14 Days in Comoros

Trip Overview

Two weeks on the Comoros stitches together three volcanic islands, each pulsing to its own beat. Wake to clove-scented breezes on Grande Comore, drift above turtle-filled lagoons off Mohéli, then climb mist-capped ridges on Anjouan. Expect slow ferries, sudden downpours, and roadside grills laced with ylang-ylang smoke. Days balance reef snorkelling, spice-plantation walks, and village markets. Evenings finish with grilled parrotfish and hammocks under a spill of stars. The tempo is moderate, early starts, long siestas under almond trees.

Pace
Moderate
Daily Budget
$80, 120 per day
Best Seasons
May to October (cool, dry trades)
Ideal For
First-time visitors, Snorkellers and hikers, Couples seeking empty beaches, Slow-travellers

Day-by-Day Itinerary

A complete plan for every day of your trip

1

Touchdown in Moroni & Old Friday Mosque

Moroni, Grande Comore
Land, drop your pack, and let the medina pull you along as the call to prayer rolls over tin roofs.
Morning
Land at Prince Said Ibrahim airport, transfer to medina guesthouse
Grab your bags, change money at the airport desk, then squeeze into a shared taxi that rattles through bougainvillea-lined lanes to Moroni's old quarter. Frangipani and diesel mingle while boys hawk mangoes from wheelbarrows.
2 hours $15 transfer
Lunch
Le Mora Café, medina sea wall
Grilled lobster with coconut rice
Afternoon
Moroni old town & Friday Mosque
Thread narrow alleys where coral-stone houses lean so close they almost kiss. Inside the whitewashed Friday Mosque, sunbeams slip through carved mahogany screens. Outside, women sell jasmine garlands that drip perfume onto warm stone.
2 hours $2 donation
Evening
Sunset on Le Galawa Beach with sugar-cane juice
Pull up a plastic chair at a beach shack and watch fishing pirogues glide across molten orange water.

Where to Stay Tonight

Moroni medina (Maison de la Paix guesthouse)

Walking distance to harbour for tomorrow's ferry

See all Comoros accommodation options →
Bring cash; ATMs in Comoros often run dry on weekends.
Day 1 Budget: $95
2

Volcano Dawn at Karthala

Grande Comore
Pre-dawn climb to the caldera rim for sunrise over the Indian Ocean.
Morning
Guided trek to Karthala crater
Start 4 a.m. from Boboni village, boots crunching over black lava gravel. By 6 a.m. you're perched on the rim while sulphurous steam hisses from vents and sunrise paints four neighbouring islands rose.
6 hours round-trip $40 guide
Arrange guide at Boboni the evening before
Lunch
Village table d'hôte in Boboni
Cassava leaves stew with goat
Afternoon
Miringoni fishing village & black-sand beach
Drop to the west coast where turquoise-and-red pirogues lie upside-down. In the shallows, children chase silver sardines that flicker like coins in clear water.
2 hours $0
Evening
Grilled parrotfish dinner at Chez Nono, Itsandra
Sit on the sand floor under lanterns, waves slapping the table legs

Where to Stay Tonight

Itsandra Beach (Retaj Moroni garden bungalow)

Cool ocean breeze after the climb

See all Comoros accommodation options →
Pack a light jacket. The caldera is chilly at dawn.
Day 2 Budget: $110
3

Spice Route & Lac Sale Flamingos

Grande Comore interior
Follow the clove trail through mountain plantations to a pink salt lake.
Morning
Drive the RN1 to Bambao spice estates
Climb through mist where red earth smells of nutmeg. At Bambao cooperative, women sort cloves on reed mats. The air stings sweet and peppery. Bite into fresh vanilla pods sticky with resin.
3 hours including stops $25 car & driver
Negotiate day rate at Moroni taxi stand
Lunch
Plantation veranda at Maison de la Vanille
Tuna rougail, cardamom-scented rice
Afternoon
Lac Sale flamingo sanctuary
Follow a wooden walkway over shallow water studded with mirror-bright salt crystals. Hundreds of lesser flamingos flap rose-pink wings, their honking carried on hot wind that smells of brine.
2 hours $5 entry
Evening
Return to Moroni, night market
Try fried manioc balls and ginger tea under string bulbs

Where to Stay Tonight

Moroni port (Retaj again)

Early ferry to Mohéli tomorrow

See all Comoros accommodation options →
Bring small notes. Plantation sellers rarely change large bills.
Day 3 Budget: $85
4

Ferry to Mohéli & Hoani Turtles

Mohéli
Slow boat south, then settle into island time beside nesting turtles.
Morning
7 a.m. ferry to Fomboni
Wooden benches, diesel fumes, and laughter while dolphins race the prow. Three hours later the scent of ylang-ylang replaces exhaust as you step onto Fomboni's sun-bleached pier.
3.5 hours $12 ticket
Buy ticket the day before. Seats fill fast
Lunch
Chez Mama Hoani
Octopus curry with breadfruit
Afternoon
Turtle patrol at Itsamia beach
Stroll the crescent of white sand while guides scan for green-turtle tracks. If luck strikes, watch a female dig, salt tears dropping as she lays ping-pong-ball eggs into warm sand.
3 hours $25 patrol fee
Call Cooperative des Tortues the evening before
Evening
Sunset dhow sail with fishermen
Drift on a lateen-rigged boat while flying fish skip across the purple water

Where to Stay Tonight

Itsamia village (Turtle Lodge eco-bungalow)

Steps from nesting beach, mosquito-net breezes

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Pack reef-safe sunscreen. Turtle guides are strict.
Day 4 Budget: $90
5

Mohéli Marine Park Kayak & Snorkel

Mohéli Marine Park
Paddle through mangroves then drift over coral gardens with parrotfish.
Morning
Sea-kayak from Nioumachoua to sand cays
Push off at dawn when the lagoon lies flat as glass. Mangrove roots twist like snorkels, leaking tangy sap into the tide. White egrets rise in synchronised flaps.
2 hours $20 kayak hire
Reserve via park HQ the day prior
Lunch
Picnic on uninhabited Chissioua Mtsamboro
Fresh coconut water and lobster brochettes
Afternoon
Snorkel the southern reef
Slide into 26 °C water swirling with turquoise parrotfish. Coral bommies rise like underwater cathedrals. The crackle of feeding fish sounds like Rice Krispies.
2, 3 hours $15 gear rental
Evening
Campfire on the beach with park rangers
Grilled jackfruit and stories of dugong sightings

Where to Stay Tonight

Nioumachoua (Great destination Bungalow)

Overwater hammocks lull you to sleep

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Bring dry bags. Ocean spray soaks everything.
Day 5 Budget: $100
6

Swim-with-Whales Day (Humpback Season)

Offshore Mohéli
July, October only: snorkel beside migrating humpbacks under strict guide protocols.
Morning
Boat briefing & whale search
Leave at 7 a.m., diesel engine thudding over cobalt swells. When the guide lifts a hand, slip quietly in; a 15-m mother glides past, barnacles clicking like castanets.
4 hours on water $80
Book weeks ahead. Only two boats allowed per pod
Lunch
Onboard sandwiches and island fruit
Mango, guava, tuna mayo
Afternoon
Village walk in Nioumachoua
Stroll past pastel houses where women pound cassava to a thump-thump rhythm. The air is heavy with cloves drying on rush mats.
1.5 hours $0
Evening
Dinner at Madame Houmadi's family table
Try langouste with vanilla sauce, a Mohéli speciality

Where to Stay Tonight

Nioumachoua (Great destination Bungalow)

Easy 6 a.m. whale departure

See all Comoros accommodation options →
If outside whale season, swap for a full-day reef-fishing trip.
Day 6 Budget: $120
7

Cross to Anjouan via Tuna Boat

Anjouan
Island-hop eastward to the most dramatic peaks in Comoros.
Morning
Wooden cargo boat to Mutsamudu
Depart at 5 a.m. under stars. Sleep on tarpaulin beside yellowfin tuna packed in ice that steams in rising heat. Dock at 10 a.m. to the smell of drying octopus.
5 hours $15
No schedule, show up at 4:30 a.m. and wait
Lunch
Café la Paix, Mutsamudu port
Shwarma-spiced goat and cumin rice
Afternoon
Mutsamudu medina maze
Climb worn coral stairs between balconied Arab houses. Echoing alleys smell of cardamom coffee and sea salt. Pause at the 17th-century citadel for dizzying views of dhows below.
2.5 hours $3 citadel entry
Evening
Harbour sunset with ginger rum
Bar Le Rocher, perched on fortress walls

Where to Stay Tonight

Mutsamudu old town (Hotel Le Kivu)

Rooftop terrace faces the port ferries

See all Comoros accommodation options →
Cash only on the tuna boat, no ATMs on board.
Day 7 Budget: $85
8

Anjouan Waterfalls & Rainforest Trek

Anjouan interior
Hike through perfumed forest to Ttingui Falls then cool off in emerald pools.
Morning
4×4 to Ttingui trailhead then trek
Bump up red laterite roads where vanilla vines coil round jackfruit trees. In the forest, lemurs grunt and cinnamon bark perfumes humid air. The fall crashes 50 m into a jade pool.
5 hours round-trip $35 driver + guide
Leave at 7 a.m. to beat afternoon clouds
Lunch
Village banana-leaf lunch
Smoked fish, breadfruit, chilli chutney
Afternoon
Swim & relax at falls
Slip into cool water tinted turquoise by minerals. Dragonflies skim the surface. The roar drowns everything but your heartbeat.
2 hours $0
Evening
Return to Mutsamudu, grill night at Le Mandra
Try swordfish steaks with ylang-ylang honey glaze

Where to Stay Tonight

Mutsamudu (Hotel Le Kivu)

Hot showers after muddy trek

See all Comoros accommodation options →
Wear reef shoes. The pool stones are slippery.
Day 8 Budget: $95
9

Sultan's Palace & Cloves of Domoni

Domoni, Anjouan south
Step back into Swahili sultanates and smell the world's sweetest cloves.
Morning
Shared taxi to Domoni (1 h) then palace tour
The ruined 15th-century palace still carries sandalwood in its inner chambers. Guides point out grindstones once used for ochre paint and Portuguese cannonballs fused into coral walls.
3 hours including drive $20 guide + transport
Guides wait outside the palace gate
Lunch
Chez Amina, harbour side
Octopus pilau with tamarind
Afternoon
Clove cooperative tour
Walk drying yards where green clove buds blanket concrete like nail heads. The scent is dizzying, almost menthol. Workers show hand-sorting and share tiny cups of spiced tea.
2 hours $10
Evening
Sunset on Domoni pier with fishermen mending nets
Buy fresh tamarind candies from old women with wicker trays

Where to Stay Tonight

Domoni (Maison d'Hôtes Djabir)

Rooftop hammocks over the channel

See all Comoros accommodation options →
Ask for a clove stem souvenir. They make aromatic toothpicks.
Day 9 Budget: $90
10

Mount Ntringui Crater Rim

Anjouan
Summit the 1,595 m peak at dawn for 360° views of four islands.
Morning
2 a.m. start for sunrise hike
Headlamp beams catch spider eyes glittering on mossy steps. Above cloud level, the air thins and smells of damp pine. At the rim, sunrise ignites neighbouring Mohéli and the distant Comoros mainland.
6 hours return $45 guide
Guides sleep in Ouzioine village. Arrange the night before
Lunch
Village stew in Ouzioine
Sweet potato leaves, coconut milk, smoked eel
Afternoon
Descend to Moya beach for recovery swim
Black volcanic sand still holds the cool of dawn. Palm fronds rustle overhead. Waves hiss gently, massaging tired calves.
2 hours $5 moto-taxi
Evening
Grilled lobster on the sand at Moya
Order early. Fishermen sell out by 7 p.m.

Where to Stay Tonight

Moya (Moya Plage eco-lodge)

Steps from the beach and hammocks under palms

See all Comoros accommodation options →
Pack altitude snacks. The climb is steep and long.
Day 10 Budget: $110
11

Dhow Sail & Snorkel South Coast

Anjouan south
Traditional lateen sail to hidden coves and coral canyons.
Morning
Private dhow charter from Moya
Crew hoist a russet sail. The boom creaks like old bones. Glide past cliffs where giant ylang-ylang roots cling like spider legs. Drop anchor where turquoise water turns cobalt over the drop-off.
3 hours sailing $60 split between passengers
Negotiate directly with captain on the beach
Lunch
Beach barbecue on uninhabited islet
Red snapper, plantain, chilli lime
Afternoon
Snorkel Anjouan reef gardens
Drift above lettuce coral swarming with neon damsels. The only sound is your own bubbles and the crackle of parrotfish nibbling coral.
2 hours $10 mask/snorkel
Evening
Return to Moya for drum circle on beach
Join locals for coconut-palm wine and rhythmic mgodro dance

Where to Stay Tonight

Moya (Moya Plage)

Already checked in

See all Comoros accommodation options →
Bring reef booties. Sea urchins lurk in shallows.
Day 11 Budget: $105
12

Return to Grande Comore & Mitsamiouli Beaches

Grande Comore north
Back to the main island for empty Indian Ocean beaches.
Morning
Cargo ferry to Moroni then car north
Same diesel perfume, same tarpaulin nap. Dock by noon, then ride north along the coast where baobabs lean like drunk sentinels over the road.
4 hours total $20 ferry + $15 taxi
Ferry departs when full, be at the pier by 9 a.m.
Lunch
Chez Halima, Mitsamiouli village
Coconut crab curry
Afternoon
Relax at Bouni Beach
Spread a sarong on powdery white sand. The only footprints are yours and a ghost crab's. Behind, almond trees drop green fruit with a soft thud.
3 hours $0
Evening
Sunset drum circle with local youth
Bring small bills to toss into the circle

Where to Stay Tonight

Mitsamiouli (Jardin de la Paix beach bungalow)

Quiet northern beaches, far from Moroni buzz

See all Comoros accommodation options →
Buy fresh coconut bread from roadside grannies in red headscarves.
Day 12 Budget: $90
13

Well-known Coelacanth Dive or Snorkel

Grande Comore west
Explore the undersea realm of the world's most ancient fish.
Morning
Two-tank dive at Coelacanth site (advanced)
Descend through thermoclines to 120 m where brown coelacanths drift like living fossils. Their lobed fins flutter. Eyes glow pale blue in torchlight. For snorkellers, shallower reefs host turtles and reef sharks.
4 hours $90 dive / $45 snorkel boat
Reserve at Galawa Dive the day before
Lunch
Harbour café in Itsandra
Grilled calamari, lime pepper sauce
Afternoon
Visit Coelacanth Research Centre
A tiny lab displays pickled juveniles and fossil fragments. The curator's stories smell of formaldehyde and wonder.
1 hour $5
Evening
Farewell dinner at Retaj terrace
Order the vanilla crème brûlée, an island signature

Where to Stay Tonight

Itsandra (Retaj Moroni)

Close to dive shop and airport tomorrow

See all Comoros accommodation options →
Bring proof of certification. Dives are deep and currents strong.
Day 13 Budget: $110
14

Last Souvenirs & Departure

Moroni
Pack spices and memories before the flight home.
Morning
Volcanic rock market & spice stalls
Haggle for carved ylang-ylang wood spoons and vacuum-packed vanilla pods. The market air is thick with cumin, clove and the sweet rot of jackfruit.
2 hours $20 souvenirs
Lunch
Le Volcan snack bar, airport road
Tuna sandwich, passion-fruit juice
Afternoon
Transfer to airport
Short drive past flame trees and bougainvillea walls. Check-in early; counters close abruptly.
1 hour $10 taxi
Evening
Fly home with the scent of cloves in your luggage
Wave goodbye to Comoros fading into cobalt sea

Where to Stay Tonight

Airport vicinity (Day-use room at Retaj)

Shower before the red-eye

See all Comoros accommodation options →
Keep a vanilla pod in your passport; it'll perfume your wallet for months.
Day 14 Budget: $50

Practical Information

Everything you need to know before you go

Getting Around
Inter-island travel relies on cargo ferries (3, 5 hours) and small puddle-jumper planes (30 min). Grande Comore taxis are shared minibuses. Negotiate before boarding. On Anjouan and Mohéli, hire moto-taxis ($2, 5) for short hops or private 4×4 for day trips.
Book Ahead
June, Oct whale-swim permits, dive packages, and inter-island flights on Int'Air Îles. Ferries cannot be booked ahead, just show up early.
Packing Essentials
Pack reef-safe sunscreen, quick-dry clothes, a light fleece for mountain peaks, mask/snorkel, cash in small notes, a universal plug (type C/E), anti-malarials, and a dry bag for boat days.
Total Budget
$1,400, 1,800 for 14 days excluding international flights

Customize Your Trip

Adapt this itinerary to your travel style

Budget Version
Sleep in village homestays ($20/night), eat at local cafés, ride shared taxis, and ride the ferry everywhere. Skip the whale swim and dives. Snorkel straight from shore instead. The total drops to ~$900.
Luxury Upgrade
Trade up to ocean-view suites at Retaj, book private speedboat transfers, take the helicopter volcano tour, hire a private whale-guide, and treat yourself to spa sessions with ylang-ylang oil. The budget climbs to ~$3,500.
Family-Friendly
Reserve adjoining rooms at Retaj, add the shorter hikes on Mohéli, tour the turtle hatchery with the ranger talk, rent snorkels with full-foot fins for the kids, and always order plain grilled fish for picky eaters.
Book Activities for Your Trip
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